The Ultimate Travel Bag - Six Sewing Tips

As promised, sewing friends, here's a follow-up post on The Ultimate Travel Bag

Don't get me wrong, the instructions included with the pattern are top notch

they are very thorough and very easy to follow

I just have a few additional tips if you are interested:

TIP #1

byAnnie includes a sheet of cut apart labels for use when cutting all the components of this bag

for your sanity, it's pretty much a necessity to use those labels!

I scanned the sheet of labels and printed it on sticker paper

that made life so easy

all I had to do was cut each label as I cut the fabric,

then peel and stick to my fabric

remember to use your paper-cutting scissors for this step, not your fabric shears

-you're welcome-

TIP #2

if you, like me, can't find 1 1/2" strapping,

just use the wider strapping

use a clear 24" quilting ruler (or any other ruler you have handy),

mark the line where the strapping would measure 1 1/2 "

then take it to the serger and trim and finish that edge all in one

*an alternate method if you don't own a serger*

mark your strapping the same as above

cut it using your rotary cutter or sewing shears

run an overcasting stitch or a zig zag stitch along the edge

TIP #3

if you choose to straight-line quilt, rather than free-motion quilt

your lining, main fabric, and foam

use a walking foot with seam guide

I placed my seam guide at 1"

TIP #4

use binder clips instead of pins

where it is practical

it is much easier to hold those mesh and binding

layers together with a clip instead of pins

TIP #5

after attaching the binding to one side of the inner pockets,

flip the binding to the back side leaving about 1/8" hanging down longer than the front

the beauty of the mesh is that you can see through it while you are stitching the back down

stitch from the top side, using your edge stitch foot (Bernina foot #10)

let the guide of that foot ride snug up against the front fold

use a straight stitch

and you will get a beautifully stitched back side of that binding

TIP #6

Instead of buttons, use extra large snaps for the 'feet' on the bottom of the bag

they are metal

they won't break like some buttons

and they are very secure

I used the button sew on stitch on my sewing machine

I moved the needle to the far left position

and changed the stitch width to 5.9mm

the clear quilting foot (Bernina foot #29)

was the perfect choice for this step

I could see through it to line up my snap hole

and by moving the needle to the far left position,

that foot was the perfect width to hold down the edge of the snap

and stitch it on at the same time

it made quick work of all those snap holes

and trust me, those snaps are not going anywhere!

That's it, sewists

Go ahead

Get busy on your Ultimate Travel Bag

Then go somewhere fun

You deserve it!!!

Stitch Selection Savvy: How to Add Elastic Shirring to a Flat Waistband

Greetings sewers!

As promised, here is the explanation of how I added the elastic shirred back waist band

to my Anna Maria Horner Roundabout Top.

This photo shows the waist band from the inside of the garment.

Notice the front waist band (top of photo) is flat

and the back waist band (bottom of photo) is elasticized.

The pattern is drafted for a flat waist band all the way around,

and it instructs to cut two front and two back pieces.

That way you have a front and back waistband piece and a front and back facing piece.

To allow for the elasticized gathering,  I cut the back waist band and facing pieces

one size larger than the rest of my blouse.

On the back facing piece, I drew three horizontal lines (with iron-off marker)

to help me properly position the elastic.

I assembled the blouse waistband as instructed,

except that I did not completely close up the side seams.

 

By leaving the side seams open, I was able to bury the ends of the elastic in the seam

so I don't have raw elastic edges showing on the facing side of my back waistband.

When I finished attaching the elastic with a narrow zig zag stitch,

I hand stitched the side seams closed.

 

There ya' go.

An elasticized back waistband using a flat waistband pattern.

If you have a tried and true method for accomplishing similar results,

I would love for you to share your method.

Please leave your instructions in the comment section.

Thanks so much, and have a most lovely sewing week.

Stitch Selection Savvy - The Triple Straight Stitch

This is the topstitching on my Herringbone Jacket. 

I want to share with you all, how to achieve a perfect topstitch without purchasing special thread.

 

The triple straight stitch is used for reinforced seams, and it is also perfect for topstitching.

Ordinarily topstitching is accomplished by using a straight stitch and a heavy weight topstitch thread.

But the same, if not better, results can be achieved by using regular weight (40w)

multi-purpose thread in conjunction with the triple straight stitch,

which is standard on many of today’s sewing machines.

The stitch icon looks like stitch number 31 on this sewing machine:

 

Your sewing machine will take one stitch forward,

one stitch back over that same stitch,

and again one stitch forward over the previous two stitches.

Three stitches in all, but the end result is one straight stitch.

Thus the name – triple straight stitch.

 

 

This is the same number of layers of fabric and the same thread,

but topstitched with a regular straight stitch.

See the difference?

 

I use my number 10C presser foot when I topstitch.

It is called an edgestitch foot.

 

As you can see from the bottom of the presser foot,

it has a metal guide running through the middle of the foot.

 

Simply position that guide along the edge of your fabric,

set the needle either to the left or the right of the guide, and stitch.

The result is a perfectly placed, even line of stitching.

 

The next time you want to add topstitching to your project, give the triple straight stitch a try.

Use your regular presser foot if you don't happen to have the edgestitch foot.

It works just as well, but you will have to be more attentive to keeping your stitch line

an exact distance from the edge of your fabric throughout the length of topstitching.

 

Happy stitching, my friends!

 

 

Ruffle Fabric Trim Tutorial

This ruffle fabric is very popular right now and I am seeing it made into women's skirts and baby and girls' apparel.  I purchased one yard a couple months ago with the plan to make it into a skirt or onesie/skirt combo for my little granddaughter, but there is plenty of fabric to use for other projects as well.  Being pricey, it is almost $20 per yard (for knit fabric, are you kidding me?), I wanted to put the extra yardage to good use.  So I used some as an accent to the hemline of my dress.

Let me start by noting that this is the same basic process as adding piping to a project.

Let's begin:

1.  First, lift up those ruffles and have a peak.  You will see that there is enough 'flat' fabric between each ruffle to allow you to cut off as many rows of ruffles as you would like.  For this dress, I chose to just use one row of ruffles.

It is simple to follow the lines already on the fabric as your cutting lines.  Remember, this fabric won't ravel because it is knit.  It does, however, have a tendency to curl under once it has been cut.  Just be patient, it will all come together rather nicely.

2. 

Your three best friends for cutting are the self-healing cutting mat, the rotary cutter, and the clear cutting ruler.  Line up the edge of the ruler on that pre-determined cutting line and simply run your rotary cutter over it.  This can be done with shears, but you will save your sanity by using the rotary cutter.

Ta da, you now have a nice row(s) of ruffled fabric with which to embellish your project.

3. 

Simplicity pattern 2215 has a pattern piece number 10 (lower band).**  After seaming the band together as directed in the pattern instructions, fold the band in half lengthwise with wrong sides together.  Lay the ruffle fabric (right side up) on top of the folded band with raw edges together and pin.  Yes, it is necessary to pin because of that roly poly edge of the knit fabric.

**If you are using a pattern that does not have a bottom band piece, make your own.  Cut it 3" wide (unless you are using more than one row of ruffles, then you will have to cut your band wider accordingly) and the length of the circumference of your hem (you may have to cut two lengths and piece them together), plus allowance for seaming it together to make it long enough to fit your garment.  Continue with the tutorial from the **

4. 



Okay, now you're going to sew a straight stitch a scant above that ruffle.  I used a roller foot for this step because the knit ruffles kept getting caught under my regular presser foot.



You now have a nice straight line of stitching just above those ruffles.  There is also enough seam allowance left to allow room to stitch this ruffled band piece onto the dress.

5.  The final step is to pin the band/ruffle piece right sides together and raw edges even with the bottom of the dress.  Sew it with the band piece on top so you can see the stitching line from the previous step.  That becomes the line you follow for your seam.  I used my serger for this step so as to have a nice finished edge.  Here's a picture of all those layers, serged together:

6.  Finally, press the seam up toward the garment and press the band and ruffle down.  This technique could also be used to add interest to a quilt or home dec project.  Have fun with it!